When compared to Neocardinia, these unusual shrimp are often more expensive to buy and require more careful tank maintenance. These Neocardinia cousins require a bit more maintenance, but you are rewarded with stunning displays of color. Thanks to years of selective breeding, Cardinia Contonensis has seen several stunning color variants.
You may develop a thriving population of Cardinia Contonensis shrimp with careful planning. Cardinia Contensis has distinctive hues and comes in a variety of patterns, including spots (Black Pinto), stripes (Black King Kong), and solid colors (Extreme Wine Red). Anything is feasible in terms of color, from pure black to the traditional red and white crystal red.
Most of the Caridina species we see in the hobby are Crystal/Bee shrimp, Tiger shrimp, and all of their combinations. The patterns and markings of shrimp are described by the phrases “crystal,” “bee,” and “tiger.” To further define the precise appearance of the shrimp, there are numerous distinct gradings and color morphs within each of these pattern groups. The Crystal Red Shrimp is arguably the most well-known Caridina species (other than the Amano). They provide the tank they are in a splash of red, similar to cherry shrimp. Crystal Blacks, Blue Bolts, Black King Kongs, and Tangerine Tigers are further common Caridina shrimp.
Water parameters outside of their optimal range tend to be less tolerable for caridina species. Most of them like to be kept at lower temperatures, often in the upper 60s to low 70s, and struggle in temperatures higher than 76F. They favor acidic or neutral soft water. They will reproduce most successfully in environments with a pH of 6.8–7.5, GH of 4–6, and lower KH. Although they can survive in slightly harder and more basic water, it has been noted that they do not flourish as much there. These shrimp can grow up to 1.25 inches in length and have a lifespan of 1-2 years.
- Recall that these are merely typical water characteristics that pertain to the more widespread varieties of shrimp in each species. Not all species are covered by them. Please do your homework to determine the ideal water conditions for the particular shrimp you intend to maintain.
Final Points to Consider
It is typically best to keep and breed dwarf shrimp at a regular room temperature, which is typically set between 68 and 74 degrees Fahrenheit in your home. Although temperature shouldn’t keep you up at night worrying about your precious shrimp, you should be aware of it and have a basic understanding of how it affects shrimp.
Shrimp Types and Their Preferences for Temperature
Related to the crystal red shrimp are pandas. Panda shrimps are thought to require more maintenance. They are extremely sensitive to pH and water chemistry. But their preference for temperature is one thing they don’t have. Panda shrimp prefer temperatures between 62 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (16.5-24.5 degC). They can use a heater for protection against temperature variations even though they don’t need one.
Red crystal shrimp: in need of a warmer. Their preferred range is 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degC).
Blue tiger shrimp: they could utilize a heater and prefer a temperature of 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degC).
Blue tiger shrimp and blue bolt shrimp are related, and both species could benefit from a heater. They both demand temperatures between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit (18-24 degC).
The ghost shrimp definitely require warmers. Their optimum range is between 70 and 80 °F (21-26.5 degC).
Given that red cherry shrimp like water between 77 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit, a heater is required (25-27.5 degC).
Red cherry shrimp and snowball shrimp are related, and both require a heater. They prefer temperatures between 65 and 85 °F (18-29.5 degC).
Amano shrimp require a heater and prefer their water between 77 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit (35-27.5 degC).
Babaulti shrimp: A heater is a must for these multicolored striped shrimp. They prefer their water between 77 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit (25-29.5 degC).
Cardinal shrimp: absolutely need a warmer. Since they are from Indonesia, they are accustomed to warmer climates; their ideal range is 77 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit (25-30 degC).
The temperature in a shrimp tank is the final water parameter we need to discuss. Everyone will have a different perspective about this, but the suggested range is often between 70 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Only shrimp from Sulawesi need a temperature between 74 and 84 degrees.
Consistency is now the most important consideration when it comes to temperature. You want any variations in the water’s temperature to be gradual, not abrupt, and rapid. For temperature control, larger aquariums are always preferable because they naturally produce more uniformity.
Larger tanks require more time to chill down and warm up, which is why I will never recommend a one-foot aquarium for spawning shrimp; things just go pear-shaped too rapidly.
This is how keeping shrimp outside of the recommended 70-75 degree range will effect your shrimp, which is something that many people do. Higher temperatures cause animals to live shorter lives, reproduce more quickly, and eat more, although they may produce somewhat lower-quality offspring as a result.
On the other hand, lower temperatures may lengthen your shrimp’s lifetime, lengthen their reproductive cycle, and cause them to use less food. The ideal balance for your shrimp will be provided by maintaining the temperature between 70 and 75 degrees, which is something I would always advise folks to do. You may stray from this, but not by more than two or three degrees.
I’ve now discussed the water characteristics that your shrimp need. Although some shrimp, particularly the Neocaridina Shrimp, can live outside of these restrictions, it’s unlikely that they will prosper. It really depends on what works for you—I am aware of a few breeders who stray from these numbers.
You are in charge of providing the ideal environment for these animals because they are your pets. We must also talk about the origins of water in order to comprehend how to create this ideal ecosystem.
80 degrees Fahrenheit
- The ideal aquarium temperature for Red Cherry Shrimp is between 77 and 81 degrees Fahrenheit (25-27AdegC). The growth and reproduction rates will be accelerated by higher temperatures. However, increasing temperatures cause dissolved oxygen to decrease, necessitating a reduction in stocking. RCS can withstand temperatures up to 86AdegF (30AdegC), however at that point the water must be aerated and the tank cannot be overstocked. RCS can endure temperatures as low as 77AdegF, although they are less likely to reproduce and are more susceptible to disease.
At what temperature can shrimp reproduce?
800F is the ideal temperature for Red Cherry Shrimp breeding (a little above 260C). Lower temperatures have a deleterious impact on these shrimps’ health, behavior, and ability to reproduce.
Although higher temperatures tend to enhance reproduction, it is best to keep the temperature below 810°F because doing so reduces the amount of dissolved oxygen in the water, which is crucial for supporting life in a healthy aquarium.
Should shrimp be heated?
Cherry shrimp do really require a heater. The ideal water temperature for cherry shrimp is between 65 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit (18.3deg-26.6degC).
Despite being in a warm atmosphere, the temperature in the cherry shrimp tank might change throughout the day. This necessitates the installation of a heater in the tank.
Due to their great hardiness, cherry shrimp are not instantly killed by unfavorable water temperatures. Nevertheless, an unfavorable temperature might still reduce the cherry shrimps’ resistance, bring about several illnesses in the tank, cause problems with molting, reduce their lifespans, and impede reproductive conditions.
Do shrimp prefer warm or cold water?
I’ve read that some individuals have kept RCS in tanks of cold water. What is the lowest temperature (in degrees Fahrenheit) that they can endure, and can they handle cooler water?
Without a heater in the tank, I’ve managed to maintain a good, robust colony in my basement office cave. All winter long, the water’s temperature hovered about 65 degrees F. When we didn’t have the furnace on in the Spring and Fall, it actually grew colder.
Shrimps thrive between 59F and 68F, but breeding stops as the temperature drops. is acceptable for temperatures at night.
This can survive below 40°F for a brief time, but if the temperature is below 40°F for weeks, expect losses of up to 90%.
I keep my RCS population at room temperature, while the others are kept outside or in an unheated shed.
Similar to the previous two years, the pond outside, which is 3 feet wide and 2 feet deep, has been frozen for weeks. More than 50% of my population, which has been kept outside for more than 3 years, made it through the harsh winter conditions from November to March last year.
I’m astonished my product made it through shipping last month. Despite the fact that I paid for a 72-hour heat pack, the seller only used a 24-hour one before sending it via 3-day priority mail. They were whitish, scarcely moving, and just partially alive. However, in good ol’ MI, it may be 50 degrees one day and 10 the next.
How long does it take an egg clutch to hatch? Although there are egg clutches all over the place, I really want to clean the interior of the glass.
My RCS simply keep the eggs tucked in tightly under the tail till they hatch rather of laying them anywhere. takes a month or slightly longer.
In colder weather, they’ll just become less active. Someone in our club used to successfully store shrimp in a 55g outside on his deck all year long.
My shrimp are dying, why?
In keeping with the idea of maintaining stability, avoid making abrupt, significant water changes. Smaller, more frequent water changes are considerably preferable to larger ones. The aquarium should be filled with the fresh water gradually. If you perform a large water change too rapidly, you risk shocking the shrimp into molting before they should, making them more vulnerable and increasing the likelihood that they will perish.
How frequently ought I to feed my shrimp?
The most crucial questions of this post are how frequently and how much to feed dwarf shrimp in the tank now that you are familiar with the nature of shrimp.
Only if you DON’T OVERFED your shrimp will you be able to feed them as much and as frequently as you choose!
You can feed shrimp one to five times each week, depending on how the tank is built up and how much natural food (algae and biofilm) is available.
Typically, the ideal dose is chosen through empirical research. According to shrimp reaction, the food must be consumed within two to three hours. There must be no leftovers.
Nobody who is an expert shrimp keeper will ever provide you with precise feeding instructions. Nobody will accept accountability if they give you a bad answer that could harm your tank. I’m referring to overeating.
DON’T believe that overeating is a minor issue. It is! Actually, one of the leading causes of death in dwarf shrimp is overfeeding.
- Unconsumed food can swiftly decay and spread parasites and illnesses. There is a very high likelihood that Scutariella Japonica, Planaria, Vorticella, Hydra, Ellobiopsidae, or Green fungus will visit your tank one day if you overfeed your shrimp.
- A surplus of food and organic waste is the main cause of ammonia and nitrates. You must therefore check how much food you are giving the shrimp.
Don’t eat too much. This basic guideline applies to all types of shrimp. I can’t even begin to express how crucial this rule is. Unfortunately, a lot of novice shrimp breeders frequently overlook it or think that giving them a little bit more won’t make much of a difference.
What signs of stress can you look for in shrimp?
Shrimp kept in aquariums are known to be delicate and easily agitated crustaceans. Therefore, it’s critical to locate the issue’s root cause and address it as soon as stress-related behaviors in shrimp are noticed.
Lethargy, lack of appetite, color loss, slowed growth, and issues with molting are a few of the most typical symptoms of stress in shrimp.
Stress symptoms in aquarium shrimp might be challenging to spot. They may not always be easily visible because they are frequently subtle.